How to mod FR, Poppy & Nu Face dolls for Quick head swaps

Here’s the deal: I wanted my Fashion Royalty, Poppy Parker & Nu Face heads to be more easily interchangeable and removable for when I want to change out a character’s “look”. Currently if I want to do that I either have to have multiple dolls (1 head, 1 body) for each character or else if I buy an “alternative look” head I have to go through the hassle of heating up the head, worrying about pulling it off, warming it up again, popping it on the new body (or the new head on the old body) and so on. I find that very stressful but I also don’t want to end up having 3 or 4 of each doll bodies just for a few different looks. Space is still at a premium in our house, you know?

This is a method that was suggested to me by my friend Will . I have done it with a few differences to use it on Integrity Toy’s Fashion Royalty, Poppy Parker and Nu Face lines. There is an unintended side effect with this mod — an increased range of motion at the neck allowing for more expressive head positions. 🙂

As usual, please be aware I am a risk-taker when it comes to my dolls and customizing them. I do it with the knowledge that in the process I may damage them. This modification is done at your own risk and I am only sharing my results and methods. If you plan on trying this I suggest using a doll you don’t mind so much if it ends up damaged.

What you’ll need:
To make 1 body & 1 head swap-able

  • 1 body (I have done this on the Poppy Parker, FR3 and Nu Face 2.0 bodies)
  • Neodymium Sphere Magnets. Minimum strength N35.  I used 8mm ones but you can also use 5/16th sized ones too. (at the end of the post I’ll link to some places you can get them from) You’ll need 2 per head, 1 per body
  • Lightweight cotton or muslin (about a 3 inch x 3 inch square)
  • Vise Grip Pliers (small size)
  • Safety Glasses
  • Needle & thread
  • Thin leather (pale in color to avoid any possibility of discoloring vinyl) or some other fabric that can provide friction to aid in holding head poses. You might have to experiment with what you have on hand. This is important though. As to thickness of the leather think of glove leather (fashion, not work gloves). About .50mm to 1mm in thickness.
  • Hot water (close to boiling-I would not use boiling as it may make eyelashes come off?)
  • Small bowl (for soaking the head and neck in)
  • Patience. You’ll need some for this as it isn’t the fastest modification to complete. Don’t do it if you’re in a hurry!
  • Here are a few of the supplies–sorry I forgot to snap a pic of everything.


Here we go! The fun, the excitement! The Nail-biting Drama!

First: get your supplies together and get your water on to boil. Get the small bowl ready so that you can put the near boiling water into it. Pour the water into the bowl.


I used near-boiling water and soaked Agnes’ head in it to soften the head up and get it off the body. If you’re comfortable using the heating pad, hairdryer or oven method to remove the head go ahead and do those instead. Get the water ready though since you will need it shortly.


After removing the head, empty the water and re-fill again with near boiling water. Then place the neck & neck knob area back in the bowl to soak for a couple of minutes. Don’t forget to put your safety glasses on!


After about 2 or 3 minutes you can remove it from the water. Be careful not to burn or scald yourself with the water (it’s going to drip out of the body).

Get your vise grips ready. It is important to grip and pull the knob out squarely (in a direct/ straight line). Not at an angle. Doing it at an angle will increase the chance of stress fracture and neck cracks considerably!! 🙁


Pull with firm, steady pressure. Keep it straight.  Once the knob is removed get your magnet!


Rest the magnet on top of the neck hole opening.
Apply steady pressure. Be careful as the magnet can easily slip out of your grip and ping across the room.


If you put the doll’s head in the water to remove it towel dry and allow to dry fully before going onto the next steps. (because you will be inserting fabric into the head you want to have it dry not damp or wet!) Also dry the body as best you can. Over night works ok, or if you’ve done it on an FR3 body you could remove the arms and lower torso to dry it off more thoroughly & quickly.

Next, get your fabric, magnets, needle and thread. Then insert the magnets into the center of the fabric and fold in half. Sew the base closed.


Wrap the thread around the magnets a couple of times. Tie off. Trim the fabric from the base of the fabric/magnet parcel.


Begin pushing it into the head.


The head holes vary in size so some will fit in better than others but they will all fit provided you are patient and apply appropriate pressure.


Now, get your leather and scissors and cut out two small circles (approximately a little smaller than a dime). You’ll trim them down more so the size is not exact.


Here is a photo to give you an idea of the leather’s thickness:


One will be for use inside the doll’s head-neck hole area, and the other will be for use over the neck-hole where the magnet sits.


Here is how to do it for the head part:


For the neck piece it should look like this:

This is how both pieces should be positioned (I took the photo before trimming the neck’s piece)


At this point you’re almost done! YAY! All you’ve got to do now is gently position the head over the neck area (about 2 inches over it to avoid the magnetic pull) and then quickly put it in place (the magnets will help by attracting each other). It will probably take a couple of tries to get it on right (so that none of the leather circles show) but keep trying. You can always take them off and re position them when you need to.

And that’s it! You’re done! 😀

I did this to almost all of my FR/NF/PP dolls so I have been able to ditch most of the duplicate bodies and now can easily change heads around. The best thing about this is that inserting the magnets in this way allows me to remove them if I should want to re-root or partially re-root a head in the future. Also, I can now swap Giselle from the Poppy body to the high heeled Monogram body when I want her dressed up in heels! 😀 😀 😀

Here are a few photos of Agnes with her new magnet head/neck mod. She’s upside down to show that the magnets are strong enough to hold her head on even against gravity! 😀





My thanks go to Will for the idea and encouragement, and to Mark for being willing to pull the neck knob out and push the magnet in so I could try to photograph it for the tutorial. 😀

Places to get Magnets From: Please note I don’t endorse these merchants I am only sharing where I got some of my magnets from and other places that carry them.

Thackery Handmade, LLC (on ebay) (this is where I got my magnets from. She ships quickly and the price per magnet is almost half that of K&J)

K&J MAGNETS  Will got his magnets from here and they have a stronger pull strength. I used weaker magnets (N35) so your mileage may vary if you use these.

Tutorial: Tweaking Poppy Parker’s body for better articulation & posing

Here it is–the long ago mentioned Tutorial on how to modify Integrity Toys Poppy Parker body!




I didn’t really bother with any nude pics but here is a pic with Giselle showing her improved side movement (it can go further or even way further but then it looks kind of weird like the FR2 waist joint)



Please note: I am the sort who takes risks with my dolls and customizations. This modification is done at your own risk and I am only sharing my results and methods. I got the idea to do this modification based on the information on Flickr posted by Marikah (no longer an active account). Her modification was done on Fashion Royalty Hommes and you can find an example on flickr under Emilia’s albums:

What you need:

  • Patience. This takes some time and can be really finicky.
  • A Poppy Parker body. I highly recommend doing this on a test doll first (one that you don’t like so much, or a spare body) so you get the hang of it.
  • Half a yard of thin elastic (about 3mm in size and white in color) this is the flat kind–not the round kind. You can usually pick this up from JoAnn Fabrics or AC Moore in the sewing section. in the UK you can probably pick it up at HobbyCraft.
  • 1 pair of scissors (for cutting the elastic)
  • 1 Pair of round nose or needle nose pliers
  • 1 pair wire cutters
  • A bit of wire  (I was using some scrap wire from out of a larger piece I’d gotten from Lowes) but anything that is 16 to 20 gauge ought to do the trick. You want a piece of wire that is flexible enough to finagle around curves but hard enough to keep hold of your elastic.

Get your wire cutters ready!

Carefully bend the torso back and forth at the bust joint. I emphasize carefully since if you do it too hard/ fast you can cause stress-discoloration on the abs plastic there. 🙁

Do this until you can see the opening/ joint area. The black arrow shows where you should be looking to see if the gap is wide enough yet. (You’ll be sticking your wire cutters in there to clip the joint a few steps down from now).


While you’re doing that, this is what you want to see:


See that post that the black arrow is pointing at in the photo above? That’s what we want to get the wire cutters in there to cut (in half) which will allow us to separate the bust from the body’s main torso.

Looking at the photo below the Orange arrow is the post that was cut with the wire cutters. Make 100% certain you are not cutting the other posts (the ones with the screws in them). Those black arrows are pointing to the pieces you will be threading the elastic through.


So take a look at the photo below.  Aren’t all those arrows kind of overwhelming? LOL

I wanted to point out a few things here

1) Do you see that kind of snot colored stuff? As far as I could tell it has the consistency of hot-melt glue. I’m not at all sure why it’s in there (but I did find it on the inside of all 5 poppy parkers that I have done this mod to so far. The amount of it seemed to be random-alot in some of the bodies and very little in others. I don’t know if this was ITs solution to adding weight to the bodies w/o the giant nut inside or what. Because of the goop I ended up using the wire (in the supplies list above) to thread the elastic through. Depending on how much goop (if any) is in your body you might not need it.

2) Looking at the arrows again you see that the black and orange are pretty much in the same place on each half of the torso (top and bottom *see photo above for top*). These are the spots you are going to be feeding that 3mm elastic through. Don’t cry! It’s going to be ok–really! 😉


 At this point get your wire, elastic, wire cutters (or other pliers) ready!


Make a tight loop (small as possible) at one end of the wire. This is going to be your snake (assuming your doll’s torso is full of this goo. If not, you can probably skip this part…But I do find it helpful for threading the elastic through all the parts.

Now, tie one end of the elastic through the loop. Tie it tightly so that it doesn’t come undone while you’re doing your threading. Don’t make the knot(s) too big since they need to fit through all the gaps and bars. Small is best in this instance.


At this point I’d like to suggest that you also look at the photos from Emilia’s flickr. I did shoot pics of me trying to thread the elastic in but I am not sure if they are understandable. So check them out below:


See that goopy stuff?

If you find that you can’t get your piece of wire through it (there ought to be large enough gaps in it that you can, but I had it happen on 2 bodies that I couldn’t) get a heating pad or a hairdryer and set them on low — and that will help soften it up enough for you to wiggle your wire through the pieces.

This is the way I began stringing this body.  You can pretty much do it however you want. The main thing is to get it through the bars/ sections to evenly distribute the force and strain placed on the elastic. This is when I was just starting to get the elastic situated and began stringing.


Looking at the photo below you can see where the goopy stuff was–in this particular body it wasn’t a real issue and I didn’t have to warm the torso up to be able to get the wire through it (I use the wire, but you could possibly use hemostats too).



I found it easiest for me if I strung it from the top (bust) down into the torso then back up to the bust and to the torso.

It should resemble the photo below:


After you do that you need to determine how much you need to tighten up the elastic.

(tip:make sure you keep your wire attached to one end!! This will help to avoid it coming un-strung until you’ve knotted it off!)

Once you’ve determined this (you don’t want the elastic to be stretched out! You want just enough tension to hold the two parts together but not so little that the torso is floppy) tie the elastic, and knot it. I suggest double knotting it. You can cut off the excess at this point, and leave yourself a little (about 1.5 in) extra in case you want to adjust this at a later date.

The Elastic and knotting should all fit within the torso with no problem.

Hope this is helpful to someone out there (besides me!) 😉

Quick Tutorial: making dreadlocks for dolls

How to make dreadlocks for your dolls & action figures:

You want a head of hair that looks like this, huh?


This isn’t the most intensive of tutorials but it’s mostly to illustrate certain points.  Sorry about the poor photos but hopefully you’ll get the idea of what to do.

What you need:


  • Wool roving (also called tops) You can get it in a variety of colors and weights. I get mine off ebay but you can find it on etsy & some local craft fairs. You want to get Merino Wool preferably 18 micron. This is the stuff I buy: the seller has always been prompt in shipping (although YMMV!!!)
  •   Make certain you are buying wool (not nylon). You don’t need much to do a cg or barbie sized head.
  • Soap (whatever you have in the bathroom will do).
  • Water
  • 2 hands
  • time…and patience!

I find it easiest to stick some music on so you have some kind of entertainment while you’re doing this. It’ll take a bit of time depending on how many you want to get done in a sitting.

What to do:

Step 1: Pick the roving color(s) you want to use and carefully separate some from the main piece of roving.

Step 2: From there separate the roving into smaller pieces.

Step 2A: The size of these will impact the final size (diameter/thickness of the dreadlock) so I’d say the thinner the better.  (the examples I have shown are actually much too large, but it’s just a quick tutorial!!) But it’s also a case of trial and error so see what you do and what works best for your needs in that regard).

Step 3: Wet your palm with a couple drops of water(maybe 1/2 a teaspoon) and rub with a bit of soap (don’t need much soap). Then pick up your piece of roving and pull it gently through your palm to wet it (with the water & soap).

Step 4: Once the piece is wet begin rolling it back and forth along the length of your palms (like when you’d make clay snakes).  It is important at this point that you do this quickly while applying pressure. The heat generated by the friction of your palms will help the wool to felt. Just remember: Wool + Wet + Heat = Felt (and dreadlocks).

Step 5: Repeat step 4 over-and-over….and over! Stop when you have the dreadlock thin enough for your purpose. Be aware of the fact that when they begin drying out they will puff up a bit and so making them somewhat thinner than you want is probably a good plan.

Step 6: Look at the finished dreadlock! yay! You have one….now you only need lots more to go!

Step 7: Apply dreadlocks to doll/action figure head. You can do this in a few ways. I personally prefer to use the tension method with this (use your needle tool) I haven’t had any problems with them coming out. The other options are to find an upholstery needle (with a very large eye) and thread the dread through that and “sew” into the head, Or, you can glue them onto the head (but I’ve never done that and I don’t think it sounds like a particularly good idea).

As you can see from the photo below: I didn’t make the dreadlocks thin enough, nor roll them for quite long enough to make them a bit more solid/felted. (I’m not bothered though since this was just for a quick example & I’ll be de-dreading her later today).

(this is another example of a head re-root I did in this method)


Step 8: You’re pretty much done! 😀 Style the hair if you want to. You can use hair gel on it if you need to but try to find a type that does not flake.  (I use Small Talk (by Tigi) for all of my dolls with styled hair. It doesn’t flake/crack etc. and a little drop goes a long way (plus I can use it on my hair too!)

Ok, there you have it, how to give your dolls/action figures dreadlocks! Dani, I hope you find this of some use! 😉

Tutorial: How to customize barbie chairs

Getting 1:6 scale office chairs/desk chairs is really a pain in the ass.

This has come up for me a few times since I’m working on making college dorm rooms, library space &  1:6 office set-ups.  Invariably in all of these places you find the ubiquitous “office/desk” chair. The problem is that finding them ready to buy isn’t that easy.  And getting them in scale with your figures isn’t always as easy as it seems.

I mean, aside from the ZC ones…the rest of them out there….well. Let’s just say they don’t really fit my notion of an office chair.  (I’d love to drop $200.oo+ on a Vitra one –but hello, broke here!)  The office chair that the ZC dolls made is nice but it’s waaaay oversize for my Volks, Momokos & Blythes.  And yes…I know office/desk chairs come in different sizes.  I do. But this is about my preferences.  If I can’t buy what I want then I’ll make it. 😛

I’m going to work with two particular types for this tutorial.  (I’m calling this a tutorial but it’s more like a bunch of loosely written instructions to kind of run-with.) Mostly because they start off pretty close to what I want and the less I have to do the better, right? 😉

First go out and find the following chairs to work with: They are the chairs from the My Scene So Chic Salon & the chair from the Barbie My House Armoire & Chair set.

The thing that makes me most inclined to work with these is the fact that the bases are pretty sturdy & they bear a pretty good resemblance to the real thing.

The one with the grey wheels is one of the My Scene chair base and the one with the black wheels is from the Armoire Set.

Note: there are actually 2 types used in My Scene doll furniture and both are good with a little work. The thing to be aware is that the My Scene Salon chairs have one type that “clicks” back (apparently for washing hair in the sink) and one that was fixed.  I’m using the fixed ones as an example, but you can use the clickers if you cut down the mechanism and shape the hole to fit them.

Here’s what I came up with: the before & after:


  • Barbie Chair Base(s) *as described above*
  • Wood/Plastic/MDF/ Foamex (to make seat parts-use depending on how sturdy you want the finished piece of furniture to be)
  • Brass/steel/aluminum/ wire or bar (to make the back-rest post)
  • Black aluminum tape OR twine (and paint the twine with acrylics)
  • Glue or Contact Cement (I personally prefer cc)
  • Batting/Foam (to pad the chair with)
  • Fabric & Tyvek (to upholster the chair)
  • Stapler
  • Needle & Thread (to match fabric)
  • Acrylic Paints (for detailing)


  • Draw up an approximate size drawing of the seat you want to make, and the size of the back-rest.

  • I cut mine out of paper (I like to judge sizes that way) and then cut them out of foamex.  You can use cardboard (not good for long term use) wood (bass, pine etc),  etc. Whatever you use you want it to be fairly sturdy.


  • Remove the seat/top from whichever chair you’ve decided to use.
  • Drill/dremel/carve out a hole in the seat you’ve made to fit the post at the top of the chair’s base. (This is a good time to also carve out  the slots in the seat back & the back-rest where you’ll be inserting the brass/wire/metal to hold the back rest in place).

  • Check the fit (height wise) for the kind of doll you want to use this with.

  • I cut out batting (using those paper seat & back drafts) and glued it to the plastic. (Do yourself a favor and rough up the plastic or wood to help it adhere) This helps pad the seat and give it a bit more realism. 😛 At some point I’ll really go to town with one of these to see how far I can push them.
  • After the glue/contact cement has dried & you feel you’re happy with the amount of “puff” on the seat & back-rest then comes the fun part—you get to try your hand at upholstering it with your chosen fabric. I’d like to offer some how-to on this but I basically took some books out of the library and went from there. I’m not an upholsterer–and I never will be!! Experiment & prepare to do it over a couple of times until you get it to look right.
  • While you’re taking a break from upholstery you can cut a couple of thin strips of the black aluminum tape and wrap it around the metal you’re planning on using to support the back-rest. If you’re using twine (make sure it’s a small diameter otherwise it’ll look dorky) layer a light coating of contact cement/glue and then wrap the twine tightly. Once that’s dried then apply the acrylics but do not water them down any more than you absolutely have to.
  • Once you’ve upholstered the chair (the seat & the back-rest) insert the metal piece you’re going to use as the support. If you don’t plan on taking the chair apart in the future you can glue them into place.  I like to be able to flat pack my stuff as much as possible so mine aren’t glued in place.
  • To finish off the underside of the chair cut some tyvek and staple it into place (cut out the circle where the plastic base attaches). Paint it black (or whatever color you want, most of my office chairs usually had manky black semi-fabric-fiber there and tyvek seems very similar in texture to me)

And pretty much that’s it. Sit some dolls in them:

ANYHOW….. if anyone gets any use out of this tutorial….let me know, eh? I could use the encouragement.

Hot Toys True Type: Body Mod pt. 1

Yes it is true…Nothing is safe anymore! I cut up Fashion Royalty Dolls, Volks Dollfies and now I’m chopping up Hot Toys action figures!

Why am I chopping up my Hot Toys Action figures? Well, mostly because they’re too short for my FR girls.  My Fashion Royalty girls need to have some male counterparts but frankly the thought of dropping 100 bucks on a doll that has even less articulation than the FR girls really made my gut twist.  So instead I decided to experiment and see if I could modify a Hot Toys action figure (I’m using one of the True Type bodies) to fit the need.

Anyway here’s the brave guy (headless) going under the knife! (or more accurately, the Saw)

Of course, after doing one leg you have to do the other, right?

I had to put markings on the insides of each leg piece to make sure I put the correct bits back together.

To give a little bit of stability (and to help my general crookedness) I inserted some small wooden dowel pieces.

Upon further consideration I thought that adding s abit of wire would help me hold it together a bit while I was going to add milliput & test for height.

Initially I was only going to saw into his thighs and add a bit there but the addition to the height wasn’t enough that way.  So I decided to cut into his lower leg/ calf area and add a bit there.

I considered different options  about stuff to fill the gaps — automotive filler (which is hard wearing), epoxy etc. I decided to use Milliput since in my experience it really does take a beating & it would probably work best. (I know a lot of people swear by Aves Apoxie sculpt but I can’t afford the $$$ for the amount I’d need (plus intl’ shipping!!).

So anyway that’s pretty much part one done.  I’ll update soon with part 2.

A simple mod to improve Fashion Royalty Doll articulation

You know it occurred to me today that just because I know this stuff doesn’t mean that a lot of other collectors do.

Those of you who collect & use Fashion Royalty dolls will know that although they have some articulation they aren’t that great (I’m not including the new FR2 line since they’re not exactly thick on the ground at the moment). But—we all like them for one reason or another. And that means that we need to learn to work with the limitations of the bodies, right?

Err… yes and no.

If we do a very simple mod (with some patience) you can have a slight improvement in the posability & general usefulness of the doll.

One of my big gripes with them is the fact that when you sit them down (on a chair, couch, sofa, counter–whatever) they always have a backwards slant.

See Jordan in the pic below displaying the “slant”.

As you can see the slant, right? (the blue line is to show you  roughly the plane her rump & shoulders are on when she sits upright before the modification.

It’s actually a pretty easy issue to fix — all you need is an exacto knife or a scalpel knife to do it, and some patience.

Here’s all you’ve got to do:

1) take the knife and slide it around the insides of the upper thigh joints (where they are connected to her body). What you are doing is very gently paring away some of the excess plastic to allow for a better range of motion. DO this SLOWLY and carefully. Knives are sharp & you can cut yourself pretty badly if you let the blade slip. So be careful. Also remember it’s easier to take more off but just about impossible to put it back.

2) Check periodically as you remove the extra plastic. The best way to do this is to sit the doll up on a surface/ table edge and see if she can sit upright yet.

Jordan after her modification therapy:

Again, the blue line is to show you the shoulder/ rump plane. It’s not a massive improvement–but it’s something and it does help to avoid that “Slouching” on the couch look that so many of the FR girls are prone to! 😀

Anyway, like I said it’s a simple modification (and probably not news to anyone out there) but it does make a bit of a difference.

The Un-Named Cafe – Update#4 *pics*

Making good headway with the cafe project! :biggrin:

Here are some pics to look at! (I’ll try to explain what I’m trying to get across in them) 😉

This is the back & side of the cafe (before being primed for painting). You should always prime MDF since otherwise it pretty much sucks in coat after coat of paint… ugh.

This is the front of the cafe.

I’m working on what style doorknob/latch I want.And I need to make the mailbox/slot insert. I’m thinking something like worn brass or aged bronze for it and the door handle.

It’s also had the inside walls primed, the front’s been painted with a sand textured paint (it might end up becoming another color but that’s just for now). Some scribed in bricking was added for detail (though it might end up being lost when I make the awnings for the front.

DO you think there needs to be an awning over the door as well as the window? Or just the window/table seating area?

Here’s a shot through the window—you can see the lovely round (smaller) tops that Mark made for my barbie table bases!

Since they started out looking like this:

I think they’re much more in keeping with the cafe feel & size now. (after all they need to pack customers in, don’t they!??!) 😉

This is the front of the cafe with makeshift sidewalk bases in place. These are previous diorama roomset bases that didn’t end up getting used… (yes they’re small–they were for things like bathrooms & storage closets LOL) so they’re getting used for this.  I’d have liked them to be a bit narrower but eh, I got what I got and that’s what I got! I plan on actually extending them a bit lengthwise so that I have more play with angles I use to shoot.

This is pretty much the whole set (for now) the main diorama roomset, the spacing out front of it for seating & some scenery stuff, and the off side area where the archway is (which could turn into another room down the line if I really needed it to)

Annnnd…there you have it. The current state of the Un-named Cafe Roomset/diorama!

Mini-Project: High heel feet modification

Yea so it’s taken me a bit longer than the promised week–but here is the outcome (and a few photos along the way). ^_^

First, I started with a pair of legs from a barbie with the jointed knees & a pair of knee joints from volks beauty body.


Cut the legs off just above the knee joint using a small handsaw. Pry the rest of the knee joint off and you’ll need to use a pair of wire cutters to remove the knobbly bit left (sorry no pics while I was doing this part by that time I just wanted to get it done and I’m still having camera issues  :p   )

You’ll end up with it like this after:

If you look at the white arrow in the 2nd pic it shows where you’ll need to start dremmeling out the inside of the barbie leg to attach the volks lower knee peg. Make sure you note that you are dremmeling to fit the larger (lower) peg-part rather than the smaller—otherwise you’ll need to keep at it. I recommend doing it slowly and a little at a time to avoid making the hole too large.

Poke the pegs into the appropriate slots and then stick them onto the doll who’ll be getting high heels to wear.

Here you can see the completed foot/leg mod:


As you can see the doll can still be balanced to stand un-assisted. (shown on a volks beauty b-body). I don’t think it looks too bad, considering! 😀


And although this isn’t a very good shot you can see that the modified legs also work/fit  on the regular volks excellent B body(although the appearance of the knee joint isn’t as smooth).


Ok, so that’s about it. It’s a pretty simple modification and I might end up doing it again in the future. Any questions feel free to ask! 🙂

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