Tutorial: Tweaking Poppy Parker’s body for better articulation & posing

Here it is–the long ago mentioned Tutorial on how to modify Integrity Toys Poppy Parker body!




I didn’t really bother with any nude pics but here is a pic with Giselle showing her improved side movement (it can go further or even way further but then it looks kind of weird like the FR2 waist joint)



Please note: I am the sort who takes risks with my dolls and customizations. This modification is done at your own risk and I am only sharing my results and methods. I got the idea to do this modification based on the information on Flickr posted by Marikah (no longer an active account). Her modification was done on Fashion Royalty Hommes and you can find an example on flickr under Emilia’s albums: https://www.flickr.com/photos/emiliacouture/sets/72157623459359238/

What you need:

  • Patience. This takes some time and can be really finicky.
  • A Poppy Parker body. I highly recommend doing this on a test doll first (one that you don’t like so much, or a spare body) so you get the hang of it.
  • Half a yard of thin elastic (about 3mm in size and white in color) this is the flat kind–not the round kind. You can usually pick this up from JoAnn Fabrics or AC Moore in the sewing section.http://www.joann.com/dritz-braided-elastic-1-8in/prd2906.html in the UK you can probably pick it up at HobbyCraft.
  • 1 pair of scissors (for cutting the elastic)
  • 1 Pair of round nose or needle nose pliers
  • 1 pair wire cutters
  • A bit of wire  (I was using some scrap wire from out of a larger piece I’d gotten from Lowes) but anything that is 16 to 20 gauge ought to do the trick. You want a piece of wire that is flexible enough to finagle around curves but hard enough to keep hold of your elastic.

Get your wire cutters ready!

Carefully bend the torso back and forth at the bust joint. I emphasize carefully since if you do it too hard/ fast you can cause stress-discoloration on the abs plastic there. 🙁

Do this until you can see the opening/ joint area. The black arrow shows where you should be looking to see if the gap is wide enough yet. (You’ll be sticking your wire cutters in there to clip the joint a few steps down from now).


While you’re doing that, this is what you want to see:


See that post that the black arrow is pointing at in the photo above? That’s what we want to get the wire cutters in there to cut (in half) which will allow us to separate the bust from the body’s main torso.

Looking at the photo below the Orange arrow is the post that was cut with the wire cutters. Make 100% certain you are not cutting the other posts (the ones with the screws in them). Those black arrows are pointing to the pieces you will be threading the elastic through.


So take a look at the photo below.  Aren’t all those arrows kind of overwhelming? LOL

I wanted to point out a few things here

1) Do you see that kind of snot colored stuff? As far as I could tell it has the consistency of hot-melt glue. I’m not at all sure why it’s in there (but I did find it on the inside of all 5 poppy parkers that I have done this mod to so far. The amount of it seemed to be random-alot in some of the bodies and very little in others. I don’t know if this was ITs solution to adding weight to the bodies w/o the giant nut inside or what. Because of the goop I ended up using the wire (in the supplies list above) to thread the elastic through. Depending on how much goop (if any) is in your body you might not need it.

2) Looking at the arrows again you see that the black and orange are pretty much in the same place on each half of the torso (top and bottom *see photo above for top*). These are the spots you are going to be feeding that 3mm elastic through. Don’t cry! It’s going to be ok–really! 😉


 At this point get your wire, elastic, wire cutters (or other pliers) ready!


Make a tight loop (small as possible) at one end of the wire. This is going to be your snake (assuming your doll’s torso is full of this goo. If not, you can probably skip this part…But I do find it helpful for threading the elastic through all the parts.

Now, tie one end of the elastic through the loop. Tie it tightly so that it doesn’t come undone while you’re doing your threading. Don’t make the knot(s) too big since they need to fit through all the gaps and bars. Small is best in this instance.


At this point I’d like to suggest that you also look at the photos from Emilia’s flickr. I did shoot pics of me trying to thread the elastic in but I am not sure if they are understandable. So check them out below:


See that goopy stuff?

If you find that you can’t get your piece of wire through it (there ought to be large enough gaps in it that you can, but I had it happen on 2 bodies that I couldn’t) get a heating pad or a hairdryer and set them on low — and that will help soften it up enough for you to wiggle your wire through the pieces.

This is the way I began stringing this body.  You can pretty much do it however you want. The main thing is to get it through the bars/ sections to evenly distribute the force and strain placed on the elastic. This is when I was just starting to get the elastic situated and began stringing.


Looking at the photo below you can see where the goopy stuff was–in this particular body it wasn’t a real issue and I didn’t have to warm the torso up to be able to get the wire through it (I use the wire, but you could possibly use hemostats too).



I found it easiest for me if I strung it from the top (bust) down into the torso then back up to the bust and to the torso.

It should resemble the photo below:


After you do that you need to determine how much you need to tighten up the elastic.

(tip:make sure you keep your wire attached to one end!! This will help to avoid it coming un-strung until you’ve knotted it off!)

Once you’ve determined this (you don’t want the elastic to be stretched out! You want just enough tension to hold the two parts together but not so little that the torso is floppy) tie the elastic, and knot it. I suggest double knotting it. You can cut off the excess at this point, and leave yourself a little (about 1.5 in) extra in case you want to adjust this at a later date.

The Elastic and knotting should all fit within the torso with no problem.

Hope this is helpful to someone out there (besides me!) 😉

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2 thoughts on “Tutorial: Tweaking Poppy Parker’s body for better articulation & posing

  1. Awesome. Can never have enough articulation (as long as it is petty). I love how clear your photos are and how concise the instructions. I’m almost sure I could do this. Thanks very much.

  2. Amazing how that adjustment allows for greater flexibility. I’ll bookmark this post so I can make adjustments like this, should I get a Poppy Parker doll or body. Thanks for sharing.

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